How Many Fittings Do You Need? The Fitting Process Explained

The fitting process is what separates custom tailoring from off-the-rack clothing. Here is how fittings work at Hoi An tailor shops and how to get the best results.

How Many Fittings?

• Shirts: Usually 1 fitting. Simple construction means the first fitting is often the final check.
• Trousers: 1 fitting. Check waist, length, and taper.
• Suits: 2 fittings standard. First checks shape and shoulder fit. Second confirms final adjustments.
• Dresses: 1 to 2 fittings depending on complexity.
• Wedding dresses: 3 to 4 fittings recommended.

What Happens at Each Fitting

First fitting: The garment is roughly assembled, usually with temporary stitching. The tailor checks the overall shape, shoulder placement, sleeve length, and body fit. You try it on and the tailor pins adjustments. This is your most important opportunity to request changes.

Second fitting: Adjustments have been made. The garment is closer to finished. Check details: button placement, pocket alignment, hem length, collar shape. If everything looks good, the tailor completes the finishing work.

Tips for Better Fittings

• Wear the shoes and undergarments you plan to pair with the garment
• Be specific about what feels wrong: "the left sleeve is 1cm longer than the right" is more useful than "something feels off"
• Move around in the garment: sit, raise your arms, bend forward. Check that it fits in motion, not just while standing still.
• Ask the tailor to explain any changes they are making. Good tailors welcome questions.

Find shops known for responsive fittings in our tailor directory.

The Three-Fitting Standard

The best Hoi An tailoring shops use a three-fitting process for complex garments like suits and structured dresses:

• Fitting 1 (muslin or basted): The garment is loosely assembled. You try it on and the tailor checks the overall shape, shoulder alignment, chest fit, and length. Major adjustments happen here.
• Fitting 2 (semi-finished): The garment is more fully constructed but not yet finished. Buttons, lining, and finishing details are not complete. The tailor refines the fit based on adjustments from fitting 1. Minor tweaks happen here.
• Fitting 3 (final): The finished garment with all details complete. This is your last chance to request changes before you take it home. Check everything: button alignment, collar roll, trouser break, pocket positioning.

What to Check at Each Fitting

At each fitting, systematically check these elements:

• Shoulders: The seam should sit exactly at the edge of your shoulder, not hanging over or pulling inward.
• Chest and waist: You should be able to button the jacket comfortably with one finger of space. Too tight creates pulling across the buttons; too loose looks boxy.
• Sleeves: Should show approximately 1 to 1.5 centimeters of shirt cuff below the jacket sleeve. Both sleeves should be the same length.
• Trouser length: Decide on your break preference (no break, slight break, full break) and communicate it clearly. The tailor can show you each option.
• Back: Check for pulling, bunching, or excess fabric across the upper and lower back. The fabric should lie flat.

How to Communicate Adjustments

Clear communication is the key to a great result. Use specific language rather than vague descriptions. Instead of "it does not feel right," say "the chest is too tight across the buttons" or "the left sleeve is slightly longer than the right." Point to the exact area that needs attention. Most Hoi An tailors are experienced at interpreting feedback from international clients, but the more specific you are, the better the outcome. If there is a language barrier, use gestures: pinch fabric where it is too loose, pull where it is too tight. The tailor will understand.

For general tips on getting the best results from Hoi An tailoring, read our first-timer guide.

Virtual Fittings and Remote Orders

Some Hoi An tailors offer remote ordering for repeat customers who know their measurements. After your first visit, the shop retains your measurements and can make additional garments to ship internationally. This is not recommended for first-time customers (the in-person fitting is essential for establishing accurate measurements), but for returning visitors, it extends the value of your initial Hoi An trip indefinitely. Contact your tailor via WhatsApp or email with your order and reference images. Our tailor directory includes contact details for all 40 shops.